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A Year of Rock Climbing

July 21st, 2008 ydant

It all began on August 17th, 2007, as these things do, with an invitation.  Actually, the invitation came a few days prior as is common with such things. The 17th, however, was the crucial date, for that was when I got hooked.  I certainly did not realize then that one seemingly harmless Thursday night would lead to me spending hundreds of dollars and countless hours on a hobby that had, before that day, never entered my thoughts.

It started with an instant message from Nick suggesting a deviation from the normal Friday night routine.  His suggestion of rock climbing took me aback a bit, but in retrospect I am not entirely sure why.  Like I mentioned before, rock climbing was something I’d never considered.  I only remember one time prior, when I was in my early teens, that I had been presented with the opportunity. On that earlier occasion I turned it down the offer much the same reason as Nick’s offer a year ago made me a little apprehensive.

Despite having been extremely active throughout most of my life, with typical diversions including running, long distance bicycling, backpacking, and hiking, I have never really thought of myself as very fit.  On both occasions where I was presented with opportunity to climb I was nervous that I would be unable to make it up the wall at all. Luckily I matured a good bit since the first time, and I decided to give it my best shot. It was only afterward that I realized most people do have issues making it to the top of the higher gym walls, and that I was in an exceptional state of fitness.  While most have trouble climbing the 40 foot wall on their first night, Nick and I did a number of times before leaving.

I agreed to join Nick that first night mostly on a lark.  I later learned that for him this was all part of his grand plan to climb Mount Rainier before he turned 30. Sadly, at almost 30 now he won’t be able to achieve his goal. He’s had two attempts at the mountain and has been thwarted twice due to dangerous weather. Despite not achieving what he set out to do from the start, I think he’s gained as much from climbing as I have. Still, he’s a mountaineer at heart, and the tall mountains sing his name. He’ll be back on Rainier again next year.

Although I am sure he would have continued climbing without me, I think we have both benefited greatly from the other’s influence.  We complement each other nicely with extremely compatible temperaments, strengths and weaknesses. Time and time again we have attacked problems that were just at the edge of our reach and, through mutual encouragement and coaching, conquered all. There is little that can withstand our united attack; if one of us succeeds on a problem, he is able to coach the other.  It just works. 

After only two classes we both realized that climbing was a hobby that we wanted to pursue. By the third class we had already spent hundreds of dollars at REI (Recreational Equipment, Inc.) purchasing gear: rope, helmets, climbing shoes, harnesses, chalk bags, carabiners, and ATCs (belay devices). We attended that third and final class with our gear in tow at a time when all of our classmates were still wearing rental gear and looking as if they weren’t sure if they should even bother attending. To call us gung-ho would be a significant understatement.

With knowledge gleaned from some books, internet sites, and a lot of consultation with anyone we could talk to about it, Nick and I went outdoors for the first time. This first expedition was a mere week after the third class, and we had been on indoor walls no more than a handful of times. Not really knowing better, we attacked one of the more ambitious local places for our first outdoor climb, with full 30m rock and limited anchor material. We weren’t reckless, but we certainly were excited. Our research paid off, partly due to some help we got from other climbers, and we survived with a lot of pictures to tell the tale.

Being outdoors has always been a source of solace for me. For a long time I went on frequent backpacking trips accompanied only by my thoughts. At other points in my life I sought the comfort of a long bike ride or a run through the woods. Rock climbing is just another outlet for that need, and one I’m enjoying every minute of.

Since that first day climbing, my life has changed significantly. I’ve lost a lot of weight, and I’ve grown a lot of muscle. I’ve gone from having issues with the lowest rated climbs in the gym to being able to climb routes with holds so small I scoffed at the thought of them being used as hand holds just 6 months ago. I’ve gone from the training wheels of placing anchors at the top of the route to carrying the rope up with me, shoving protection into whatever cracks I can find. I’ve done climbs so long we had to stop and rearrange things four times before getting to the top.

Most importantly, I’ve met some really great people and seen some awesome things. It’s been worth every minute.

From the end of the earth I will cry to You,
When my heart is overwhelmed;
Lead me to the rock that is higher than I.
-Psalm 61:2


This post was meant to be about my recent climbing trips over the Fourth of July, but this came out instead. Until I get those up, here are a few teasers…

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

July 13th, 2008 ydant

I just finished a solid two weeks of climbing/vacation - including my first experience seconding (10+ pitches) trad, and my first time leading trad (3+ pitches).  Besides the obvious conclusion (trad climbing is a lot of fun), I came out of this absolutely loving the Black Diamond ATC-Guide.

I picked mine up on a whim when I lost my regular ATC (Black Diamond XP).  The Guide feels very solid and I thought I might get around to using the extended capabilities eventually.  For a few dollars more, it was a no-brainer.

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

It was when I led my first trad climb that I realized how this thing really shines.  The auto-locking capability is awesome, and it only needs an extra carabiner to realize.  With this properly set up there’s no worry about having to hold tightly during cruxes or accidentally dropping the second due to fatigue or poor footing.  This also allows for a more flexible top belay, as the anchors can be back from the edge and you can stand closer to the edge and minimize rope drag (and better see the second).

Like my previous ATC (the XP), the variable friction modes of this work especially well for rappels on thin ropes.  The openings are a little bit tighter than the XP’s, so this device has a lot of friction on thicker (think gym) ropes.  For anything you’ll be dragging up behind you, however, the walls are very nicely spaced.

The only downsides I can see are the weight (it’s a bit heavier, but the extra weight is a minimal portion of the full rack) and that it’s hard to lower someone (the auto-lock is very aggressive).

Lowering IS possible, it’s just a lot trickier than with a normal non-locking ATC.  Black Diamond also has instructions for using the device in this manner:

Black Diamond ATC-Guide Lowering Diagram

All in all, this is the best accidental climbing purchase I’ve made yet.